After seeing pictures of the real engine compartment, I have seen that the back of the firewal\u00a0was satin black instead of aluminum.<\/span><\/span> To do this, I masked and painted with satin black from Zero.<\/span><\/p>\n Aqu\u00ed tenemos el resultado:<\/p>\n Here we have the result:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Next, I cut a piece of wine bottle capsule, glue it and add some rivets.<\/span><\/span> At the same time, I placed the piece of the tubular structure to adapt the KMP tank:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Here we see everything I had to modify the deposit to enter it in the corresponding place:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We move on to another piece that can hardly be seen, since it is behind the passenger seat. <\/span>After painting them, I made some holes in its upper part to introduce the core tubes.<\/span><\/span> I also put a black-painted ribbon made from a bottle of wine capsule. Afterwards, I gave Tamiya acrylic smoke colored washings:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We pass to the air filter. Previously, I had left it with the decal, although in this photo I did not have the end part on:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n As\u00a0I had to turn off those tones of the decal, I use very diluted smoke, applying it in thin layers until leaving it in the tone you wanted:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Also, I added the fixings of both tubes made with self-adhesive metal:<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Empezamos por el cap\u00f3. Mantendr\u00e9 las piezas originales del kit en lo referente a la fijaci\u00f3n y giro del mismo. Eliminar\u00e9 las fijaciones que utilizaba el kit delante del parabrisas y para sutituirlos, usar\u00e9 imanes de 1×1 mm que ir\u00e1n en los laterales. Para insertarlos, a\u00f1ado unas piezas de Evergreen en cada lateral del cap\u00f3:<\/p>\n We now turn to an important part of my modifications: the fixings to keep the front hood and the tailgate closed.<\/span><\/span> In addition, the hinges of the latter.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We start with the hood.<\/span><\/span> I will keep the original parts of the kit in relation to the fixation and rotation of it. <\/span>I will remove the fixings that the kit used in front of the windshield and to replace them, I will use 1×1 mm magnets that will go on the sides.<\/span><\/span> To insert them, I add some pieces of Evergreen on each side of the hood:<\/span><\/p>\n Here you see these larger pieces to adapt them to the body.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n In this photo, we see the white piece with the two holes where the hood is fixed, which I will remove.<\/span><\/span> We also see the added sides where we will embed the magnets:<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n In this photo we see the two points where the bonnet is fixed to the body, and that I will eliminate.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n En la siguiente foto vemos el capo a la izquierda y la carrocer\u00eda a la derecha, amabas piezas con los correspondientes imanes incrustrados.<\/p>\n In the next photo we see the bonnet on the left and the body on the right, you loved pieces with the corresponding embedded magnets.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Another photo of the body with the magnets.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We pass to the tailgate. I add a strips on the sides to increase the space where to embed the magnet and resemble it to the real car.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n In turn, in the body, we add other plastic plates where to put the magnets.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We see one side of the body in detail<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Now we see the plates of the gate part, with the magnets and the green putty given to cover the cracks.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n And here the rear modifications of the body.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We pass to the hinges.<\/span><\/span> We are going to make a piece fixed to the body, with a tube on which the gate piece is placed and pivoted.<\/span><\/span> To make this piece, I needed a split pipe in half that I will attach to a plate.<\/span><\/span> For that tube, I take one of brass and make a slot with the mini drill.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Once the groove is made, I pay some plates of a rest of Tameo photogravure.<\/span><\/span> I pay two plates to make two sides.<\/span><\/span> Then I cut and refine them with the mini drill.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Once tuned, here I show you on a rod to see the result.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n To see the result, I remove the plastic hinges from the gate.<\/span><\/span> Here you can see the difference between an original and the one I am modifying. Also, in the kit, the gate rested on the body with two pivots, which will be removed.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n We are going to do now, the pieces that will go in the body.<\/span><\/span> We use another copper tube to which we will weld two copper plates, with the width of the tubes that I cut previously, as seen in the photo.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n In this photo, we see the side pieces welded to the tube, and a piece of brass to give hardness to the piece.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n If we see where that piece will go, we can verify that we will have to make a hole so that it sits well.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Once that cut is done, we support the piece made without removing the excess, to see the result.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n And here we see how the hinge will look.<\/span><\/span> Once both pieces are fixed, the gate will rest and turn to keep open.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n Thanks for viewing and commenting!<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Continuamos con el Lancia Delta S4. Despu\u00e9s de ver fotos del compartimento del motor, he visto que la parte trasera del cortafuegos es de color negro satinado en lugar de aluminio. Para ello enmascaro y pinto con negro satinado de … Continue reading ![\"\"](\"http:\/\/blog.maquetea.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/S4-Marlb-08-0.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a>A continuaci\u00f3n, corto un trozo de\u00a0capsula de botella de vino, lo pego y le a\u00f1ado unos remaches. A su vez, coloco la pieza de la estructura tubular para adapar el dep\u00f3sito de KMP:<\/p>\n<\/a>Aqu\u00ed vemos todo lo que\u00a0he tenido que modificar el dep\u00f3sito para que entre en el lugar correspondiente:<\/p>\n<\/a>Pasamos a otra pieza que casi no se ve, ya que est\u00e1 detr\u00e1s del asiento del copiloto. Despu\u00e9s de pintarlas, le\u00a0hice unos agujeros en su parte superior para introducir los coreespondientes tubos. Le puse tambi\u00e9n una cinta pintada de negro hecha de c\u00e1psula de botellas de vino. Despu\u00e9s, le di unos lavados de color humo acrilico de Tamiya:<\/p>\n<\/a>Pasamos al filtro del aire. Anteriormente, lo hab\u00eda dejado con la calca, aunque en esta foto no ten\u00eda puesta la parte del final:<\/p>\n<\/a>Como hab\u00eda que apagar esos tonos de la calca, use humo muy diluido, aplic\u00e1ndolo en capas finas hasta dejarlo en el tono que deseaba:<\/p>\n<\/a>Tambi\u00e9n, le a\u00f1ad\u00ed las fijaciones de ambos tubos hechas con metal autoadhesivo:<\/p>\n<\/a>Pasamos ahora a una parte importante de mis modificaciones: las fijaciones para mantener el capot delantero y el port\u00f3n trasero\u00a0cerrados. Adem\u00e1s, de las bisagras de este \u00faltimo.<\/p>\n<\/a>Aqu\u00ed veis dichas piezas, m\u00e1s grandes para\u00a0poder adaptarlas a la carroceria.<\/p>\n<\/a>En esta\u00a0foto, vemos la pieza blanca con los dos agujeros\u00a0donde se fija el capot, que voy a eliminar. Tambi\u00e9n vemos los laterales a\u00f1adidos donde incrutaremos los imanes:<\/p>\n<\/a>En esta foto vemos los dos puntos en los que se fija el cap\u00f3t a la carrocer\u00eda, y que eliminar\u00e9.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a>Otra foto de la carrocer\u00eda con los imanes.<\/p>\n<\/a>Pasamos al porton trasero. A\u00f1ado una pletinas en los laterales para aumentar el espacio donde incrustar el im\u00e1n y asemejarlo al coche real.<\/p>\n<\/a>A su vez, en la carrocer\u00eda, a\u00f1adimos otras pletinas de pl\u00e1stico donde poner los imanes.<\/p>\n<\/a>Vemos un lado de la carrocer\u00eda en detalle<\/p>\n<\/a>Ahora\u00a0vemos las pletinas de la parte del port\u00f3n, con los imanes y el putty verde dado para tapar las grietas.<\/p>\n<\/a>Y aqu\u00ed las\u00a0modificaciones traseras de la carrocer\u00eda.<\/p>\n<\/a>Pasamos a las bisagras. Vamos a hacer una pieza fijada a la carrocer\u00eda, con un tubo sobre el que se ponga y pivote la pieza del port\u00f3n. Para hacer esta pieza, necesitaba un tubo partido por la mitad que unir\u00e9 a una pletina. Para ese tubo, cojo uno de lat\u00f3n y le hago una ranura con el minitaladro.<\/p>\n<\/a>Una vez hecha la ranura, sueldo unas pletinas de un resto de fotograbado de Tameo.\u00a0Sueldo dos pletinas para hacer las de lso dos lados. Luego las corto y afino con\u00a0el mintaladro.<\/p>\n<\/a>Una vez afinadas, aqu\u00ed os\u00a0las muestro sobre una varilla para que se vea el resultado.<\/p>\n<\/a>Para ver el resultado, elimino las bisagras de pl\u00e1stico del port\u00f3n. Aqu\u00ed se ve la diferencia entre una original y la que estoy modificando. As\u00ed mismo, en el kit, el port\u00f3n se apoyaba sobre la carrocer\u00eda con dos pivotes, los cuales se\u00a0elimar\u00e1n.<\/p>\n<\/a>Vamos a hacer ahora, las piezas que ir\u00e1n en la carrocer\u00eda. Usamos otro tubo de cobre al que soldaremos dos pletinas de cobre, con el ancho de los tubos que cort\u00e9 anteriormente, tal y como se ve en la foto.<\/p>\n<\/a>En esta foto, vemos las piezas laterales soldadas al tubo, y a un trozo de lat\u00f3n para darle dureza a la pieza.<\/p>\n<\/a>Si vemos donde ir\u00e1 esa pieza, podemos comprobar que tendremos que hacer un agujero para que se asiente bien.<\/p>\n<\/a>Una vez\u00a0hecho ese recorte, apoyamos la pieza realizada sin eliminar el sobrante, para ver el resultado.<\/p>\n<\/a>Y aqu\u00ed vemos como quedar\u00e1 la bisagra. Una vez fijas ambas piezas, el port\u00f3n se apoyar\u00e1 y girar\u00e1 para mantenerse abierto.<\/p>\n<\/a>Gracias por ver y comentar!<\/p>\n